Sweet Dumpling Squash

Michael Campbell profiled: head chef Mint Hotel

The 38-year-old has recently been put in charge of the kitchens at Mint Hotel, which incorporates stand-alone restaurant, the City Cafe. This sharp dining establishment sits tram-track side close to Piccadilly Station and is becoming a proper destination in the city centre offering excellent food in a shiny modern environment softened by a progressive attitude to original art.

So what's Campbell's form?

"I worked at the Grand Hotel, Birmingham, my home town as a commis chef," he says. "Then I spent lots of time in Manchester at the V&A on Water Street, at the Normandie in Birtle, at Le Petit Blanc and with Eyck Zimmer at the River Restaurant in The Lowry."

Many Manc foodies will remember Eyck Zimmer. He was one of my favourite Manchester chefs of all time, flamboyantly camp and assidiously precise in his cooking techniques yet with the flair to carry off mass-catering for 200 as though he were cooking for three. 

"Eyck taught me a lot, I really owe him," says Campbell. "He showed me how to manage and run a brigade – a very complicated process at the best of times." 

So what is his management style? Is he a curser in the kitchen?

"No," he laughs before getting serious. "It's hard work in there....if you can't stand the heat and all that. As far as I'm concerned we're a team - there's sixteen chefs at Mint. Kitchen staff need to encourage each other not tear each other up. And we all have to work hard. That's what I'm here to do. A good kitchen has to have a good work ethic and that begins with me, I have to lead by example."

That work ethic was seen in the interview for the position when Campbell proved his worth not through a roster of certificates but the proper way - he cooked. 

"I rustled up a risotto for the interview. I love risottos, they can't be too soft, too dry or too cheesy. Timing has to be just right, risottos are a test of a chef. We do one here that I did then, with pumpkin seed pesto, with butternut squash and sweet potato and lemon. Very light, but again full of flavours working together. "

So how would he describe his style?

Campbell thinks for a minute, settling back and crossing his legs.

"My style is lots of bold flavours, not complicated. The food should speak for itself, show the chef's skills and ideas, but not so much the chef forgets the basic function which is feeding people. Five different flavours on the plate is about maximum, with presentation that's smart but straightforward not overwhelming.

Honey-Roasted Sweet Dumpling Squash | Jan's Sushi Bar

.

Nor are they hindering our weight loss, even when prepared like this – as of this morning, I am down another pound (26 so far).

At any rate, Sweet Dumpling squashes are another variety I’d never heard of until I saw them at the farmers market, and it’s another variety I’m going to buy as many as I can of until I can’t find them any longer.  So far, they’re vying with the Delicata Squash for the top spot on My Favorite Squash list.  Striped and ridged like the Delicatas, they are shaped more like an acorn squash, but with a sweeter, milder and creamier flesh.  They probably would make a wonderful soup, or be great mashed or made into a souffle , they are absolutely delicious roasted with a little butter and honey.

And it’s darn easy, too.

Note: I used this same recipe with an acorn squash last night, and it was quite delicious, if not as creamy or as sweet as the Sweet Dumpling squash.

1 medium winter squash, quartered

1 small yellow onion, quartered (optional)

4 tablespoons butter, melted

2 tablespoons honey

salt and pepper, to taste

Preheat the oven to 400 F. Melt the butter in a small pan over low heat; add the honey and whisk together well; keep warm.

Quarter the squash and scoop out the seeds and strings in the center; place on a shallow baking pan.  Place the onion, if using, on the pan with the squash. Sprinkle with a little salt and freshly ground black pepper, then baste with a little of the butter/honey mixture.

Roast for 45 minutes, basting with more of the butter/honey mixture every 15 minutes, or until the squash is golden brown and easily pierced with a fork.

Printable version (requires Adobe Reader )

Preheat the oven to 400 F.  Melt the butter in a small pan over low heat; add the honey and whisk together well; keep warm.

2.    Quarter the squash and scoop out the seeds and strings in the center; place on a shallow baking pan.  Sprinkle with a little salt and freshly ground black pepper, then baste with a little of the butter/honey mixture.

3.    Roast for 45 minutes, basting with more of the butter/honey mixture every 15 minutes,  oruntil the squash is golden brown and easily pierced with a fork.

The Swiss Secret to Optimal Health, Dr. Rau's Diet for Whole Body Healing

Lucid Food, Cooking for an Eco-Conscious Life

The Classic Zucchini Cookbook, 225 Recipes for All Kinds of Squash

Savoring the Hamptons, Discovering the Food and Wine of Long Island's East End

Starting with Ingredients, Quintessential Recipes for the Way We Really Cook